Final thoughts from Doug

Wow it is hard to believe that the trip is over.  Although after just a few stops it seemed like we had been gone for a long time, looking back we really packed a lot into three weeks.  The first European settlers came into Cumberland, Md prior to 1750 and artifacts have been found here that are over 2000 years old.  The oldest artifact on our trip was pristine statues in at the museum in Luxor dating back over 5000 years (3000 yrs BC).  My plan is to build a time line with all the places but the historical range did get my attention. In several places we saw current archeological  digs going on. In Machu Piccu they found a tunnel that they think went to a water source but are currently in dig mode.  At the Valley of Kings in Egypt they discovered two tombs this year and are still digging.  Each bucket of sand is being hand carried out of the sight. We saw lots of marked pieces of pottery being cleaned and cataloged.  We saw lots of results of hand crafted products from the weaving of fabrics and rugs in Peru and Morocco, pottery and jewelry almost everywhere and finally the hand tanning of leather in Morocco.  It is amazing how much people can do without the modern tools and distractions. Look at the Pyramids in Egypt or the Moai in Easter Island. These are certainly activities that were well planned without computers or modern techniques. 

Several places that stood out as great memories for me... First the natural salt water pool at the Easter Island hotel was incredible. Cold but when the waves blasted through the small lava tube at the front it was like being a kid in a water park, but a natural event. Having a elephant walking toward our Land Cruiser and seeing the Ostrich mating dance (and quickie)  in Ngorogoro was great.  Scuba diving on the Great Barrier Reef was incredible.  Seeing and petting the Maori Wrass was quite cool. A common theme of my pictures and sights were the thousands of kids that we saw at schools, orphanages, Maasi Villages, and on the street. Kids everywhere like to learn and play.  Unfortunately most are not at the same life standards that we enjoy in the USA but, for the most part they seem to be happy.  Food markets take on a different standard (and standards) in these countries. It is not uncommon to see just slaughtered meats in the market.  In Morocco we saw goat heads displayed, and in Tibet freshly slaughtered Yaks on a goat driven cart, mmm yum.  I also tried to capture the faces of the natives where ever we went.  Some asked for money, and I complied when I could.  I could  definitely create a book of faces and children of the world after going on this trip.  In summary Starquest Expeditions allowed us to enjoy some of the best sights of the world, meet some great people and gave us a worry free trip that we will never forget!!!

Some Final Thoughts from Betsey

What an amazing trip!  We saw many incredible world heritage sites that are being preserved by Unesco.  Many are being over-visited with the possibility that it may cause some damage.  Our guide at Macchu Pichu, for instance, said that they are considering limiting the number of people who can visit during a certain time period to make sure the site is not worn down and destroyed.  On the other hand, the Egyptians not only have no limits, but they seem to have no desire to even keep their sites clean - there was trash all over the pyramids and members of our group saw men pissing on lesser pyramids.  Air pollution is also a major factor in some of the areas, especially the Taj Mahal and the pyramids.  It is a wonder that the people can survive in some of the polluted environments, let alone the monuments.  

We were also able to get a brief glimpse into the societies and cultures of the places we stopped.  One thing came through very clearly, and was even stated openly in Cusco, Easter Island, Cambodia and Tibet, tourism is a major economic factor in their communities.  It provides a major source of employment and brings in a huge amount of revenue.  As always, does the money go to those who need it the most?   Not usually.  There is still incredible poverty, children under-nourished, housing that is sub-standard even by third world standards, and women who are being oppressed.  One of the most vivid visual pictures we had of this was in Africa.  We saw a Masai woman, carrying a bundle of sticks on her back which she would use for a fire in her cow dung hut to heat and cook, and in her ear was a bluetooth headset.  

Another interesting observation was the reaction of other populations to the US election.  Many people whom we encountered were very happy with the results of our election.  I think that most people in this country have little understanding of how much other countries are interested in what happens here.  It sets a tone for how things will go with other governments.

Lastly, but certainly not due to importance, we met some wonderful people on the trip with whom we hope to continue friendships.  The group included many high-powered type A individuals but we all got along well, helped out when needed, and had a great time.  

This truly was an experience of a lifetime!

Last Stop, Fez, Morocco

Our last stop was Fez.  What a difference from Egypt.  What we saw of Morocco was clean and green.  We spent most of our time walking in the Medina, the old city with many small streets and stalls selling everything you would ever need.  There are no motorized vehicles allowed in the Medina.  There are donkeys that carry huge loads and people walking.  It is bustling and busy and has a unique charm to it.  The food looked wonderful - tons of fresh olives, fruits, freshly slaughtered meats (not so appetizing), pastries and much, much more.  What we also didn't realize is that there is long history of Jewish settlements in Morocco.  We visited the Ibn Danan synagogue in the Medina which dates back to the 17th century.  It was an impressive and beautiful building that has been restored and named an historical site.  The Torah in the ark may have been one of the originals.  The synagogue is now used only on special holidays and once a month for Shabbat services.  Coming out of the synagogue, whose outside looks like a house, we were taken by surprise as several goats came down the stairs and exited the door of another house.  Guess they were heading out for their morning walk.  

In the afternoon we went to the Fez tannery.  What an incredible place!  They must be processing hides the same way they have been for hundreds of years.  There were dozens of large vats with various liquids in them.  Hides went through a process in the vats of cleaning and then dying.  Men were in the vats up to their knees or higher, stomping on the hides or digging the hides out of the vats and then taking them to the surrounding rooftops to dry out.  It was an incredible sight!  We also briefly visited a government co-op store where they tried to sell us rugs and a weavers shop.

I found a very large and interesting menorah at the shop just inside the gate to the hotel, which is to be shipped home.  Hopefully it will arrive soon.

Both Doug and I liked Fez and thought Morocco might be someplace to which we would return in order to see more.

 

India, Tanzania and in Egypt

Wow, the days are just flying by. We have to say that this trip is going to make it hard for us to travel by ourselvess again. Everything is done for us and all we need to do is show up at the appropriate times. Although tiring, it has been a fabulous experience and we've really seen a little bit of lots of places.
So, we left off when we were in Tibet. I found the visit disturbing because I think that the Chinese are working towards dissolving the Tibetan culture and way of life. Monk candidates must now be approved by the Chinese government and they are approving less and less people to be monks and nuns. It's a disturbing situation. We did go to several Temples and a Nunnery. The difference was diverse. The Nuns were so much more open about their place then the monks. We flew on from Tibet to India. Wow, what a contrast! From lots of open space and clean air (although thin because of altitude) to smog city. We flew into Agra. Our hotel was amazing - something out of the colonial times even though it's relativley new. We were promised a view of the Taj Mahal from every window. So, we woke up in the morning, threw open our curtains, and saw smog. The Taj was nowhere to be seen. Doug called it the Smog Mahal. As the day went on, it cleared slightly, but I could feel the smog in my breathing. We went early to the Taj. To get into the gate we had to run the gauntlet through many extremely persistent hawkers. It was pretty uncomfortable! We got into the grounds and it was crowded, although still early so not as crowded as it will become. It is truly an amazing place with incredible detail work, inlaid stones of many kinds and intricate inlays. Built in the 1600's, it is truly a remarkable building. It is completely symmetrical - building and grounds - except for the prince's tomb which is to the left of the princess's. The Taj is a masoleum and a monument to love. Consequently, many Indain couples go there on honeymoon. We saw many women in beautiful saris.
In the afternoon we went to the Agra fort. Another structure with an incredible amount of detail and carving on the walls.
The hardest parts of India were the aggressive hawkers and the air. However, it was amazing to see the conditions in which people were living. As we drove along the street we saw men getting their harcut and shaves on the side of the road - with a bowl and a mirror all set up - stalls selling all kinds of things and tons of trash.
Our next stop was Tanzania. The big group broke into three groups to go on Safari. We decided to go to Ngorongoro Crater, a small egosystem in which many of the animals stay. It was wonderful to get out of the smog and crowded conditions of India and into the open space and fresh air of the countryside of Tanzania. Having been there before when Avi was in the Peace Corps, we were able to notice a lot of growth. The road to the crater is finished, there were more buildings and they are working on the roads in and around the crater. We had a great time on the game drive. We saw elephants - one who came straight for our vehicle - lions, hyenas, warthogs, wildebeast, zebras, lots of birds, on and on. The highlights were seeing the male ostrich doing his mating dance - a truly amazing sight - and then mating with the female and seeing a cheetah. Our room looked right out over the crater, so it was wonderful to just relax in our little sun room and look out at the crater. There was a full moon while we were there and that made it truly special.
Our next stop, Luxor. Today we visited the Valley of the Kings and a number of temples that have amazingly preserved hieroglyphics. We were able to go into two tombs, including that of Tutenkaman, where we saw the actual mummy. Tonight we are having a gala "farewell" party at the Temple of Luxor.
We have met some really nice people and hope that we are able to keep in touch. It's hard to believe we have only one more country and then it will be time to head home.

More from Lhasa

If you read our last e-mail this may look familiar...

Today we toured the many monastaries of Lhasa. The picture that I attached I did not take but it is the Palace of Potala. We had to walk up 340 steps to get to the top. This palace (prior one burnt down) was built from the 7th to the 17th Centuries. No pictures inside but the outside views were great. This afternoon we went to a nunnery and actually got to see, hear and take pictures the nuns do their chanting. I asked a nun a question and she asked me for a pen. Thinking that she was going to write something down I gave it to her. She thanked me, my pen was gone.Lhasa has an elevation of 12,000ft so we could feel the altitude. It is like being on top of Vail Mtn. The area is surrounded by snow capped mountains. The variety of transportation methods like that of many Asian areas is diverse. In the same minute you can see a bicycle with a hand brake, a tuk tuk (like a rikshaw powered by a bike), bikes with little trailers piled high with wood, pigs, people or any other industrial or natural product and of course new cars. Going through the markets is a real experience. Lots of beggars and vendors of everything from Yak dung to face maskes to yak butter (this is used as an offering in all the temples, placed in large Yak butter candles with 10+ wicks)jewlery, pots and pans, apparel, tea, sunflower seeds an lots more.

NOT IN E-MAILS
Not sure if we told you in the last post that we are off for Agra India tomorrow. Our hotel overlooks the Taj Mahal. We will have two lectures on the jet. First "Taj Mahal - The building and the Story of Two Lovers" and second "Relations between the United States and India"

D&B

To Chengdu then on to the TOP OF THE WORLD

Writing this Sunday Nov 9th
Left Cambodia for Chengdu on our jet. While in Chengdu we went to a Panda Research center. As we walked into the center there was lots of vendors pushing stuffed Panda bears and even Panda ties (mmm just what I wanted.ds) We walked by a walled and moated area where the Pandas were on display. The first group of four were eating fresh bamboo, going at it like they have never eaten before. They were sitting up eating and on their backs and were very cool looking. As we walked we saw more pandas sleeping and playing. There were more Pandas here than in any Zoo that I have ever seen. Then to the nursury. All the women on this trip were in gaga land looking at these baby Pandas. They were in a large crib sleeping. The looked like they were stuffed to me. Actually they moved while the sleeped. There was a nurse there feeding one of the Pandas human breast milk. Apparently collected by the research center from the locals and they are "paid handsomely for it".

We then flew from Chengdu to Lhasa, Tibet. Our hotel is supposed to be at about 13,000 ft. The air is really thin and during the winter season the O2 is really thin. We have been taking meds for the altitude and Doug has been doing fine while Bets has had a headache here and there. Yesterday we arrived and went to the largest and best orphanage in Tibet. The kids presented several song and dance routines for us. They were very cute. We were allowed into their homes. Homes are basic although they were well decorated. During the winter the only heat comes from the kitchen, (it can really get cold in the winter). Part of our trip fee paid for several donations to schools along the way including this orphanage. We then came to the hotel where we were greeted by the famous Yak Dance. In the afternoon after lunch we went to the Yokhang Temple. This temple was from the year 700 and is still in use today an is kept up by the monks. No pictures inside but I took lots of picts on the grounds. Each temple has a home for the Dhali Lama. This one looked great from the outside. Very colorful and lots of gold on top. The markets are always interesting. The first one that we went to was inside and was very organized and had lots of art and antiques. We bought a few things there. Borkhar market is no different than most outside markets. It lined the large square where 6 months or so ago there was lots of fighting in Lhasa. The views were classic market views. Lots of hawkers and beggers. You are not supposed to go up and really look at something unless you plan to buy it. They will follow you down the street in some cases. It did not happen to me but one of our friends did get harrased. I walked deep into the markets to get the full affect. Betsey went back to the hotel a little early and I was wandering on my own. Got tons of great shots of the market and the local people. Came back to the hotel and rested before dinner. We slept on these beds that felt like box springs. We both actually slept pretty good. And that brings us to just about now....

In Cambodia

Congratulations to the USA on its new Prez...  Change is good...

We arrived in Cambodia on Nov 5th.  (writing this on the 6th) after a 6+ hour plane ride.  We drove through Siem Reap and arrived at our hotel the Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor.  It is an old classic hotel and the home of the oldest operating Otis Elevator.  We went for a walk in the city's market where vendors were trying to sell us there wares/wears.  Everything from Buddha statues, apparel, textiles, carvings and even produce.  This made for some great photography.  

 

Today we visited Angkor Wat Temple and saw the towers and carved murals. It was really incredible.  When we got there we rode an elephant around one of the smaller temples and got the full 360 view. We also explored Angkor Thom Temple.  The roadside sights are very familiar as in the countryside of Thailand or China, including lots of small children running in bare feet and swimming in a drainage ditch along the side of the road. 

The last place we went today was Ta Prohm Temple.  This is the place where the movie "Tomb Raider" was filmed.  Unfortunately, Angelena Joli was not there.... The sights there were really different because it has largely been left untouched. The Kapok trees have been growing in the temple for thousands of years.  It is a sight to behold. 

There is a rhythm to our days and we are getting used to it.  We have a two day "cycle."  For instance, yesterday morning we got up, put our suitcases out, had breakfast and then headed off to the airport.  We gained three hours in the flying so when we arrived here in Cambodia we were able to do some sightseeing.  Today we spent the whole day sightseeing.  Tomorrow we again get up and travel to Cheng Du where we'll do some site seeing in the afternoon.  We're getting used to the rhythm.

We're going to be going from 90+ degrees to 30 degrees in the next two days.

Quite an adventure!

Betsey & Doug

Election Day in Austrailia

Today is Wednesday, Election day in the US. We are hoping for change.....

Betsey and I spent the day riding a catamaran to a platform near the Great Barrier Reef. Betsey snorkled (I did a little as well) while I took a scuba dive on the reef. It was awsome!! The huge walls over 30 ft high were just full of coral. The forrests of coral seemed to flow living with the water. The colors were vibrant. There is a neighborhood Grouper about 5' long that we were able to pet and hold. It actually took me for a short ride. Put my hand in a clam, the large clams have big "gums" so they won't actually bite your hand off. All in all diving on the reef is something that I wanted to do for some time.
The picture taking continues. I took several island from the sky shots on the way to Au. I have not actually had the time to get any pictures on the net yet. I will do it when I return home. Taking pictures on the iPhone and sending may be the best.
Onward to Cambodia. Hard to believe that we have only been to 4 sites and have 6 left to go and I hear that it only gets better from here. This is hard to believe!!!!
Regards to everyone.....

Doug and Betsey...

Easter Island

Having to add quickly. On dial-up in Samoa and limited time.
Easter Island was FABULOUS! Our guide was Patricia Vargas, one of the prominent archeologists responsible for reseraching and restoring the aku and moai (pronounced moe I) all over the island. We saw many of the restored sites as well as the quarry, which really makes you think and contemplate - how did they do this?! The island is small and has little vegetation, although much more than 100 years ago. There are now about 3000 residents, up from 1877 when there were only 141 or so. They get approximately 40 - 50,000 visitors per year now and are in the process of building a 5 star hotel which will change the whole feel of the island. I'm very glad we were able to come when it is still quiet and not so crowded. Going to Easter Island has been a dream of mine since high school. I just wish there had been more time to wander and contemplate the moai and all that they represent.
We are stopping over in Samoa - breaking up a 15 hour + journey frm Easter Island to Australia. Easter Island is the most secluded land on the planet - farther away from anything than anywhere else. There is a 2 1/2 hour window for any plane coming into the island, meaning they have to leave the runway available for 2 1/2 hrs on either side of a flight.
Anyway, we've had problems uploading pictures so those will have to wait until later.
Hope all is well stateside.
It's now 7:30 am Nov 2. We will lose a day today as we cross the international dateline.
Don't forget to vote on Tuesday. WE're counting on you!

Betsey & Doug